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Dish Spotlight: Pancakes From Du-Par's Restaurant and Bakery

One of the more highly anticipated, and since it opened, most well-received restaurants in Downtown Las Vegas has been Du-Par’s Restaurant and Bakery inside The Golden Gate.  Du-Par’s is a diner institution (if you ask those from Southern California) and it seems to have found a welcoming home on Fremont St.  The Du-Par’s Vegas outpost has been open for a little while now, and admittedly it has taken The Wife and I more than a minute to get down there to try it out.  Usually we’re on a strict diet of Footballs of Guinness and Deep-Fried Twinkies when we have our Fremont St. experiences.  However,we trekked downtown this past Sunday morning and saw something only people with a strong constitution should see; Fremont St. in the light of day.  Unfortunately, our first (and what will probably be our last) Du-Par’s experience was severely sub-par.  Sure, I can talk about the non-existent service, the dishwater diner coffee, the over-poached eggs and the hash browns that were only seasoned with freezer burn…but…the beloved Du-Par’s Pancakes stood out as something to talk about.

"Butter" With A Side Of Pancakes At Du-Par's

"Butter" With A Side Of Pancakes At Du-Par's

The pancakes at Du-Par’s are a perfect example of one of my top pet peeves of cooking: the chef getting in the way of a fine ingredient.  In Du-Par’s case, their fine ingredient is the pancake itself.  Before you go thinking I lost my shit or am on my way of making yet another horrible analogy, hear me out for a second.  The pancakes at Du-Par’s are extraordinary.  Other than my Dad’s (The Undisputed King Of All That Is Pancake) when I was growing up, Du-Par’s might make the best pancake I’ve ever had.  Magnificently light and fluffy on the inside with a crisp crunch to the golden brown crust on the outside, this is one of the few pancakes on this Earth that can be legitimately called “ethereal.” The flavor is sweet with a hint of vanilla, although a little too eggy for my preferences.  But, if you need to deal with a nitpick of eggyness to get that out-of-this-world texture, I’ll gladly take it.  On its own, it would be a nearly perfect experience of food…but then they muck it up with “butter.”

I use “butter” in quotes because although they claim Grade AA Butter on the menu, I’d bet a ball that there’s more to the “butter” than just butter.  The taste along with my intestinal discomfort afterward told me it was stretched out with some kind of Sysco agro-miracle.  But as if the poor quality of the “butter” isn’t enough, they drown the innocent pancakes in it before they even had a chance.  Where most restaurants will give you the butter on the side to apply yourself as you wish, Du-Par’s puts it on for you.  And they are generous.  Overly generous.  Generous to the point where the pancakes are soaked and there is a moat of yellow liquid flowing around the stack’s perimeter.  Yes, I wish I was exaggerating.  Instead of letting the magnificent pancakes take their well-deserved place in the spotlight, they use them as Paula Deen’s maxi.  It should be criminal.

And that’s all I have to say about that.

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Du-Par’s Restaurant and Bakery

The Golden Gate Hotel & Casino
1 Fremont St.
Las Vegas, NV 89101

(800) 426-1906

http://du-pars.com

Du-Par’s Restaurant & Bakery (Golden Gate) on Urbanspoon

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Mike Dobranski is a professional musician, amateur blogger, eater of good food, poker junkie, master of the inappropriate comment and bad husband to a wonderful wife.

Follow Mike and Tasting Las Vegas on Twitter at @TastingLasVegas

 

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2 comments to Dish Spotlight: Pancakes From Du-Par’s Restaurant and Bakery

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