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Dish Spotlight: Onion Soup From Comme Ça

The first solid dud on our slow crawl through the brand spanking new Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas was found at Comme Ça.  I’m hesitant to tear in too much considering the entire resort is a week old as of the writing of this, but, our meal at Comme Ça had a common thread among four out of the five dishes we sampled.  No dish better exemplified Comme Ça’s biggest hurdle than the Soupe A L’Oignon Gratinee ($9), or as we ‘Mericans say it, Onion Soup.

Onion Soup from Comme Ça.

Onion Soup from Comme Ça.

When I first looked at Comme Ça’s menu I thought it was reasonably priced because I was expecting some expertly executed food with expertly layered flavors.  The cooking of the food was fine for the most part, but it was the flavor department that was disappointing.  Onion Soup has three primary flavor providers; Onion, Beef or Veal Stock and the Fortified Wine of Your Choice (Madiera, Port, Sherry, etc.).  The more this liquid of love is reduced, the more full the flavor gets.  Perhaps a tour of a Bouquet Garni (lil’ tied up package of fresh herbs that’s removed before consumption) would be used to for extra depth to the flavor.  And did I mention that the liquid should be reduced at a simmer to concentrate the flavors?  It takes time to make good food.

This Onion Soup didn’t put in the dues necessary to be a successful dish.  And this was the case with much of what The Wife and I ate at this one outing to this newly-opened brasserie.  A lack of seasoning here, a reduction in need of reducing there and a depth of flavor missing everywhere, the food once thought to be well-priced instantly turned into a typical Las Vegas Strip gouge.  While a place like China Poblano has seemed to kick ass and take names right out of the gate, Comme Ça appears to have stumbled a bit.  Only time will tell if they find their stride.  I’m rooting for them.  Just like we should do to make a good Onion Soup, I’m going to give them some time to be at their best.

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Comme Ça

The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas
3708 Las Vegas Blvd. S.
Las Vegas, NV 89109

(702) 698-7910

http://commecarestaurant.com/las-vegas

Follow Comme Ça on Twitter at @CommeCaLV

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Mike Dobranski is a professional musician, amateur blogger, eater of good food, poker junkie, master of the inappropriate comment and bad husband to a wonderful wife.

Follow Mike and Tasting Las Vegas on Twitter at @TastingLasVegas

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1 comment to Dish Spotlight: Onion Soup From Comme Ça

  • Oh, no! I hope they get their act together soon. I’m a David Myers fan, as I’ve now enjoyed the fruit of his labor at Pizzeria Ortica at SCP and Comme Ca in WeHo, so I’ve been hoping Comme Ca Vegas would be just as fabulous as his SoCal restaurants.

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